As I wake up, for a fleeting moment I can’t remember where I am. Then, slowly, it dawns … I’m in a treehouse in the forest, a dream I’ve had since I was little. I’m in Kuranda, Far North Queensland, Australia – in the world’s oldest living tropical rainforest. I listen. It seems so quiet … until I listen again. It’s not at all quiet … it’s positively alive.
I step outside onto the deck and I hear … the creek below, the colour of Darjeeling tea, burbling over rocks and fallen branches, birds calling, branches crackling, leaves rustling in the gentle breeze, then a bush turkey joins in as he emerges from the undergrowth. Chirps, squawks, whistles, flapping, scuttling. I hear the sounds individually and all together, and feel a rhythm, harmony. The trees themselves towering high above me seem to be pulsating. The sun illuminates it all with shafts of light dancing through the canopy and suddenly I feel as if we’re waltzing to the Blue Danube. The rainforest is waking up … I feel so small, it’s a privilege to be in this magnificent space, to be part of it. What if the world could live like this?
I’m staying at Kuranda Rainforest Chalet. It is owned by two ecologists, the perfect accomodation for nature lovers. Twenty eight kms from Cairns, it’s a ‘unique and grand property nestled completely in a 0.7 ha of rainforest, complete with native trees, at least 100 species of birds, an array of small mammals, lizards and a creek thriving with rainbow flashes and small yabbies’ – and it provides everything you could possibly need. Built out of timber, only timber, the canopy and the elevation of the house means cooler temperatures and few biting insects.
The village of Kuranda, 330 m above sea-level, offers many attractions, so it’s good to allow yourself plenty of time here. You can hug a koala in the small zoo (Kuranda Koala Gardens), visit the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary and its Fairy Garden, feed birds at Birdworld which is home to 350 birds including a Southern Cassowary, enjoy different walking trails or take a riverboat cruise. It is colourful, quirky, and offers different markets showcasing locally made products and indigenous art, gemstones, clothing, small gifts and souvenirs. There are plenty of small cafes, restaurants… you might like to try out the crepes at Le Petit Café or some bratwurst and salad at German Tucker.
Getting there
Getting to Kuranda is in itself a treat. From Cairns airport, I drove up the mountain road that meanders through the world heritage forest and, winding down the window, the richness of the red earth, the crisp, clear, clean, fresh air immediately stirs my senses, the scent unforgettable. I breathe a big ‘ahhhhhh’.
Travelling alone and staying in the forest did give me the heebie-jeebies on the first night, I wondered if I would ever sleep, if anyone would ever hear me if I had to call for help…it was pitch dark, spooky out there, I felt so small. I felt the fear in my throat, I needed to trust that I would be looked after, I lay awake listening until I fell asleep; then it was a new day and I listened again.
Another time, I combined the Kuranda Scenic Railway up to the village and returned on the Skyrail Cableway – an extraordinary experience! The construction of the Railway – an engineering feat, a testament to human ingenuity. This stunning journey begins with a steep climb and features a 180 degree bend with a five chain radius curve, then takes you through 15 hand-carved tunnels, across 37 bridges including the iconic Stoney Creek Bridge which spans 300 metres across a deep gorge, dense rainforest, cascading waterfalls and dramatic cliffs. Returning by way of cableway, gently gliding above lush jungle, rain forest giants reaching for the sky, competing to find light, it’s one of the most uplifting environments to experience, it awakens your heart.